A Love Affair with Cheese: Childhood Memories in Africa and Asia
I grew up in Africa and Asia where dairy products were not the norm. In spite of that I think the need for cheese is built into my DNA going back to my European ancestors. The yearning for good cheese is just simply there, not plastic cheese – the real stuff.
Whenever we visited Europe, all we wanted was cheese and freshly whipped cream. Not together, mind you, but fresh cream was such a novelty that you could almost have dipped cheese in it and felt you were on cloud nine.
The Long Wait for Imported Goods
As a child, long before supermarkets and refrigerated container ships, we got most of our food and household goods shipped in from overseas. Twice a year my mother would prepare a long list of essentials she needed — flour, sugar, soap, laundry powder, tinned cream, and tinned cheese.
In Asia, we would import everything from a purveyor of household goods and provisions out of Hong Kong, in Africa we would get supplies shipped out from London. The anticipation of the massive wooden crates was electrifying. Then came the unpacking, discovering items that reminded us of far-flung Europe. One year, my mother even had the shop in London add a few branches of pine. Which she later burned in a metal dustpan at Christmas to bring us into the spirit of the season — despite it being 36 degrees and the rainy season.
Kraft Tinned Cheese: A Childhood Lifeline
Our yearning for cheese meant Kraft tinned cheese was the only way to assuage the need. Mom never ordered enough Kraft tinned cheese, and so it was rationed severely. This only increased our yearning for cheese — real cheese mind you.
Later, I spent many years working in Europe, with full access to cheese from all over the world. Neils Yard in London, Sheridans Dublin, Barthelemy Paris, Globus Zurich, Ostekælderen Copenhagen, Tölzer Munich, Peck Milano, Orval Trappist Cheese Belgium. True bliss for a cheese lover.
The High Price of Cheese in Asia
When I moved back to Asia 22 years ago, I was once again confronted with a lack of cheese. In Singapore, where I first settled, imported European cheese was sold at the same kilo price as gold, so whenever I travelled to Europe, I would fill my suitcase with cheese. Back in Dublin the phrase went when I arrived – don’t talk to Lone about cheese. They were used to having cheese when they wanted at affordable prices. For me it was a true experience – every time.
Now I fully understand the mechanics of importing food from Europe to Asia — the costs, taxes, and profits involved. So, I am not complaining about the price, only that at times it seemed a better investment to buy gold than cheese to eat.
When I moved to Thailand, I found that while Villa Market and Tops did stock cheese, it was, as in Singapore, very expensive. Later we moved to Chiang Mai, where to my utter delight I discovered a growing number of local cheesemakers.
Lockdown Comfort: Cheese and Sourdough in Chiang Mai
During the dark months of lockdown, I had the sheer luck of living in Wangtan Village — less than a kilometre from Jartisan Cheeserie. I would message them for a delivery, receive a QR code for payment, and within an hour or two there would be a knock on the door and a bag of cheese waiting to be enjoyed. Excellent cheese to go with the wonderful sourdough bread made by Dao at Butter is Better. That was absolute heaven to see me through Covid.
Then came more discoveries through the ‘Europ Garden’ restaurant, which hosted cheese buffets featuring local makers such as Fromagerie Dofann, Fromagerie Damian (Cheese Maker Thailand). Then the discovery of Dacheeso, and Chiang Rai Cheese.
I bonded with Jart at Jartisan and we talk cheese whenever we meet. I have convinced him to try making a Danish style cheese. There is a distinct taste/flavour to their cheese, and I think it would be a hit. He has been to Denmark and worked with some the of cheese makers there so I am hopeful we will see one in the not too distant future.
Shops and Restaurants with Imported Selections
There are, of course, shops in town selling imported cheeses, and I buy from them as well. Happy Frog with its superb selection of Swiss cheeses, the Italian restaurant Why Not with its lovely European selection, and Bonnie’s Deli just off Canal Road on the Samoeng road. A favourite stop on my way home from work for a sandwich and some lovely cheeses, local and imported.
At an event last night, I spoke with an Italian entrepreneur who was bemoaning the lack of and cost of cheese in Thailand. Naturally, I told him about the many excellent cheeses produced locally. I promised to send him a list of cheesemakers, which set me on this journey down memory lane — back to the early 1960s when we first arrived in Rome, and gorged on Bel Paese, Taleggio, and fresh Parmesan from the local cheese store starting my lifeling love of cheese.
So here, in celebration of locally made cheese, is a list of Thai cheesemakers for you to discover. I am sure there are more and if you have any to recommend just let me know!
Founded in 1988 by dairy farmer Kulab Kab Kham, Dacheeso has long been a pioneer of handmade cheese in northern Thailand. Remaining true to home-style methods without preservatives or mechanisation, Dacheeso offers mozzarella, cheddar, ricotta, smoked cheddar, and soft white cheeses. Their dairy range also includes cream and buttermilk, staples in local supermarkets that reflect their simple, fresh approach.
Founded by Jart, whose journey began with the Royal Project, Jartisan produces mozzarella, feta with local buffalo milk, and goat cheeses. A discovery of a mountain cellar inspired him to develop aged varieties, which quickly became his signature. Today, Jartisan is known for its creative artisanal cheeses that balance tradition with local ingredients.
Chiangrai Cheese uses a unique starter culture and milk from cows and goats raised by members of the Chiangrai Dairy Co-operative. Farmers follow modern, ethical methods, producing high-quality milk shaped by the region’s climate and rich feed. The result is cheese with a distinctive flavour found only in northern Thailand, making Chiangrai Cheese a true local specialty.
Founded by Brice Renaud, who grew up in a French cheesemaking family, Dofann blends French tradition with Thai ingredients. What began with goat cheeses has expanded to 18 varieties, including raw cow’s milk cheeses from local co-ops and farms. Produced by a small team, each wheel meets Thai FDA standards while retaining its distinctly handmade character.
Run by Damian Falco, Homemade Cheeses-Maker Thailand produces authentic French cheeses in small batches. As a one-man operation, Damian avoids long-aged styles like Parmesan and Pecorino, focusing instead on varieties ready to enjoy sooner. His specialties include Reblochon, Brie, Camembert, and Blue cheese, all handmade with the care and authenticity of traditional French methods.
Curdy Craft is a cosy cheese shop on Hussadhisawee Road, just minutes from Nimman. Known for its warm hospitality, the shop offers tastings and introductions to a variety of local cheeses. Visitors can also enjoy fresh, affordable pizzas, making Curdy Craft both a neighbourhood gem and a destination for Chiang Mai’s growing community of cheese lovers.
Founded in 2016, Anticaluna began as a small lab making mozzarella with imported Italian ingredients. Strong demand from restaurants quickly led to expansion into a full-scale plant with 25 staff from diverse backgrounds. Today, Anticaluna supplies distributors, hotels, and restaurants across Thailand with a wide range of fresh Italian cheeses, maintaining a reputation for consistent quality and value.
Launched in 2012 under One Stop Dairy Farm, The Cheese Baron produces artisan cheeses with the help of an Italian cheesemaker with over 20 years of experience. Using carefully managed milk production and modern farming methods, their cheeses are made to high standards of quality. The brand delivers directly to homes and businesses, offering a reliable source of fresh, locally made cheese.
After an international career as a chef, Reinhard settled in Nakhon Sawan where he and his wife craft artisan dairy products in their spare time. Using only fresh, raw cow’s milk from local farms and traditional methods, they create rich, flavoursome cheeses that rival imports found in Thai supermarkets, offering a genuine local alternative with authentic taste and quality.
Established in 1985 after training with master cheesemaker Gennaro in southern Italy, this factory honours his legacy with authentic Italian-style cheeses. Using 100% whole milk from local farms, they produce mozzarella fior di latte, burrata, ricotta, feta, and mascarpone. With HACCP and GMP certification, the operation maintains consistent quality while upholding the creamy, traditional taste of Italian cheese.
Founded by Italian cheesemaker Alessandro Fedele and his wife Manassanan Swripaibool, this Bangkok dairy brings the traditions of Puglia to Thailand. Using fresh milk from farms such as Choakchai, they handcraft burrata, mozzarella, and other fresh cheeses entirely by hand. Their mission is to transform Thailand’s best milk into gourmet artisan cheeses with the creamy taste of Italy.
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